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And no wonder. Mealy tofu hot dogs, platters of flatulence-inducing beans or scoops of cottage cheese in an unripe tomato cup don't exactly induce drool.

And while I'm as up as anybody for the occasional ascetic ayurvedic meal, sometimes I like my food piping hot and without garam masala.

Which is why - despite its tiny size and limited menu - I give the green light to the new Green Light Bistro, an offshoot of Annapurna's Chai House, Albuquerque's bastion of ayurvedic cuisine.

In a small space (the patio is bigger than the inside dining area) that once served as storage for the Chai House, owner Yashoda Naidoo has opened a more mainstream veggie luncheonette that will please even the most pansy-phobic eater. A limited menu of soups, salads, appetizers and main dishes sports little V's (vegan) and GF's (gluten-free) and plenty of temptations.

Like black olive tapenade on garlic crostini, mushroom caps stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes and basil, rice paper-wrapped veggie spring rolls, a hearty portobello sandwich on focaccia, or a comforting macaroni and cheese.

Nothing's more than $7.50 and one of the best items on the list is just $3.75 - the "masala fries." Warm potato slices dusted with Indian spices are served with three little dipping sauces, all yummy: a garlic mayonnaise, a spicy chipotle and an intriguing sweet/sour tamarind.

Now when was the last time you polished off an entire order of fries and felt wholesome enough when you finished to contemplate a rich-looking (but gluten-free) pastry for dessert?

Green Light Bistro, 2209 Silver Ave. S.E. Lunch only 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. 254-0100.

Cheap Eats highlights delicious items around town that cost $8 or less.