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Oh what a panini grill and a talent for baking can do.

Debra and Jud Lewis-Mahon started out with little more than that when they opened up the Painted Horse Coffeehouse, a welcome retreat of treats, upscale panini sandwiches and coffee drinks in a West Side strip mall.

It's the sort of cozy, eclectic spot that feels both neighborly and Nob Hill, a place to relax with highbrow delectables at low prices.

It's a place sorely needed on Coors Boulevard, known more for chain restaurants than actual cuisine.

Three months after opening their doors, they've already acquired a legion of fans.

Meryl Streep, for instance.

Streep, so the story goes, chanced upon a slice of apple pie craftedby Painted Horse pastry chef Randy Shamlin during a cooking competition elsewhere. She raved that the nearly foot-high pie filled with crisp, tart apples was the best ever.

Thus the pie was christened Meryl's Apple Pie ($3.95), though she was never, apparently, able to convince Shamlin to share his recipe.

Smart guy. Keep the mystery.

Shamlin also makes a mean carrot cake ($4.25), and the seasonal tartlets are like little edible jewels. I suppose the recipes for those are secret, too.

What's not a secret is the wondrous array of Painted Horse paninis, each of which begins with hearty slices of artisan breads.

From there, the Lewis-Mahons create clever combinations of meats, cheeses and other sandwich accoutrement such as caramelized onions, pesto and pepper dijonaise.

The Due Formaggio ($6.45), for example, elevates the lowly grilled cheese by melting gruyere and provolone on a buttered potato rosemary baguette with red pepper paste for a tangy twang.

The Grilled Veggie Panini ($6.95) employs, as the name implies, slices of roast eggplant, red pepper and squash cushioned by melted havarti and red pepper spread on crusty slices of bread.

Each sandwich is crisped and comes warm and gooey from the well-used panini grill.

If you have kids, or if you eat like one, you must order a grilled cheese sandwich ($3.50) served on rainbow bread - no, not that kind.

This bread is swirled with baked-in brilliant hues of red, blue and yellow. You've got to see a slice to believe it.

Loaves can also be purchased, and I suspect even the pickiest eater will be charmed with this decidedly un-white bread.

Kids are welcome here, which is not always true in restaurants of such small proportions. The Lewis-Mahons keep a stash of toys for the littler diners to play with as they stretch out on a sofa near the front of the establishment.

Painted Horse also serves breakfast, most of which center on crusty, chewy bagels in more than a dozen flavors. Pair this with a steaming cup of espresso, cappuccino or a chai latte ($1.45 to $3.95).

Beyond food and drink, Painted Horse has several nice touches. The restaurant is something of an art gallery, offering its walls for local artists to show their creations. "Gallery openings" are held the first Thursday night of each month.

The third Friday night of the month is devoted to poetry reading. On the first Monday nights of the month you'll find a fledgling book club.

And on the fourth Saturday night the Painted Horse opens its doors to folks with musical instruments who just want to jam.

For restaurant owners who started off with little, they certainly think big. Meryl Streep big.