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Katherine Augustine: Beauty of South Dakota revealed on magical trip
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On June 10, George Washington appeared to be crying at Mount Rushmore. The illusion of a tear below his left eye resulted from sunlight glistening on a mica schist embedded in the sculpture.
It was a warm, clear morning that day, when 29 of us with Sun Tours from Albuquerque visited the memorial of Washington, Abraham Lincoln, Thomas Jefferson and Theodore Roosevelt. The view was impressive during the day, with many gleams and shadows, but the evening illumination of the faces was astoundingly beautiful in the darkness.
Keystone, S.D., our home for several days, gave us access to the museum dedicated to the life story and work of Rushmore sculptor Gutzon Borglum, with display models used in carving the mountain.
From there, we drove to the Crazy Horse Memorial, which, when finished, will be the world's largest sculpture. Sioux warrior Crazy Horse is partially credited with Custer's defeat. He is considered a great warrior of his people for never signing a treaty with the U.S. government and is revered by many American Indians today.
Korczak Ziolkowski, an assistant to Borglum at Rushmore, began this sculpture in 1939. It is being funded entirely by private donations. The complex below the mountain memorial houses an Indian museum, restaurant, tepee, gift shop and several show rooms. Future plans include the Indian University of North America and Medical Training Center.
An 1880 steam locomotive train ride from Hill City back to Keystone took us through the spectacular Black Hills National Forest, which includes a view of Harney Peak.
The deep gorges, chiseled spires, jagged ridges and flat mesas in layers of red, green and pink and mounds of bright yellow volcanic ash of the Badlands also proved a fantastic sight. Created over the ages by wind and rain erosion, it spreads over 244,000 acres, and the barren landscape makes a powerful impression of nature in its own way.
Earlier, on the way to South Dakota, we toured the Terry Bison Ranch, on the Colorado-Wyoming border, where some of us enjoyed a bison burger. It was downright delicious, much like a beef burger, but without the fat oozing from it. From there on, that special burger was listed on many menus going north.
We learned about the Black Hills gold rush and the mine in Lead, S.D., at the Homestake Mine Visitors Center, where we bought Black Hills gold jewelry and other memorabilia. Our guide, a young fellow, made the tour twice as much fun with his great humor.
Then it was on to Deadwood, S.D., once known as one of the wildest and more wicked mining camps in the American West. Today it thrives with gambling halls at 86 businesses, with 3,000 slot machines and 90 card tables. Most parlors are Old West saloons with a lot of character.
When gold was discovered near Deadwood in 1876, 6,000 gold-diggers went there to stake their claims. Mule skinners, outlaws, madams and gamblers soon followed. Among them were Wild Bill Hickock and Calamity Jane, who are buried at Mount Moriah Cemetery, which we chanced to visit on a rainy day. Mineral Palace Hotel and Casino on historic Main Street was our place to rest for the night. Kevin Costner's Diamond Lil's was a place to enjoy food surrounded by the costumes he has worn in his films. Christina and Yolanda, thanks for the delicious dinner!
The Black Hills Passion Play came to Spearfish, S.D., in 1939 from Germany. The amphitheater hosts 22 scenes with 250 actors, as well as live animals, for this beatific play.
After seeing so much history, wildlife and the wondrous Black Hills, I must again give credit to Sun Tours for making my vacation such a joyful and educational adventure, to Sheryl, an expert tour director who did a superb job, and to Gloria, a safe, friendly driver. Thanks to Ed and Carol, my breakfast pals, who started each day with some clever remark, and to all the rest. I truly enjoyed this time with you.
Augustine, an Albuquerque resident, is a member of Laguna Pueblo, a retired nurse and a volunteer at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. Her column runs the third Thursday of each month.

