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Review: Gold Street Caffé's sister, the Cup is brimming with goodness

The Cup: A Gold Street Caffé

4959 Pan American Freeway N.E., Suite A, 345-3676.

Monday, 7 a.m.-2 p.m.

Tuesday-Friday, 7 a.m.-9 p.m.

Saturday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m.

Sunday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m.

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It may have a different name, but the Cup closely resembles the original Gold Street Caffé‚ in Downtown.

In fact, they're like twin sisters.

Although various witty and sometimes downright silly names characterize the Cup's menu, the dishes at the two restaurants are all exactly the same.

There are salads, sandwiches, Mexican platters and a variety of specialty and espresso drinks, to name a few. Most prices are in the $8-to-$12 range.

While the new restaurant is popular for its burritos, pancakes and bacon for breakfast, it also attracts the local work force for lunch. But the place is nearly empty for dinner, in spite of a choice location near the Century Rio 24 movie theater.

Like its sister, the Cup feels hip yet classy, with walls painted sky blue, clay red and gold. Mock windows have their shutters open on the blue side with the orangish colors to your west, giving the effect that you are eating outside during a sunset.

The staff is friendly, helpful and honest about what is good on the menu. Take their suggestions to heart.

The delicious enchiladas and the melt-in-your-mouth chicken salad sandwich on a green chile cheese biscuit had left quite an impression on my taste buds at Gold Street in the past. My palette was eagerly awaiting new adventures.

The Cup Not Yo's appetizer ($10.95) is a huge plate of crispy corn chips topped with black beans, jack and cheddar cheese, sour cream, salsa, guacamole and your choice of marinated shrimp, chicken breast or roasted vegetables.

The waiter recommended the chicken and seemed a bit disappointed when we opted for shrimp. I have to admit, after my nachos arrived, so was I.

Although they are served with a generous portion of sour cream, the huge pile of chips begs for more generous portions of the rest of the toppings. Especially the cheese. These are nachos after all, but most chips on the plate didn't have a drop of queso on them. In fact, most of the chips didn't have much of anything on them. They were more than a little dry but could have so easily been saved if only the entire plate had more of the delicious black beans and melted cheese.

Sadly, the shrimp was grilled too long. The large, usually tender crustaceans were dry and tasted like charcoal.

Perhaps our waiter was right and the chicken is better. I should have followed the lead of our trusty guide.

The description of the Cup's French dip sandwich ($12.95) had my mouth watering. I combined both options of grilled portobello mushrooms and sliced sirloin steak on one sandwich with roasted red peppers, provolone and green chile au jus. Side dishes are soup, chipotle potato salad, chips and salsa, or pan fries. Unable to resist the urge of the fries, I gave in and eagerly awaited the dippable delights to come.

The juicy steak and mushrooms were delicious, and although the au jus was a bit thick for the lightness of the focaccia bread, it redeemed itself with a satisfyingly spicy kick.

The pan fries didn't let me down either - they were roasted to perfection. Combined with the sandwich, this plate was a new take on your typical meat-and-potatoes meal.

Rich, velvety brownies ($5.95) are the objects of desire on the dessert menu. They are served with a wonderfully creamy vanilla bean ice cream and light whipped cream that contrast nicely with the dense chocolate sauce drizzled over the plate.

Candied walnuts topped off the already lovable brownies like precious gemstones.